How to Build a French Drain

A French drain is a sloped trench of clean stone around a perforated pipe. Build it right and it moves water away from your house for decades. Here is the installation, start to finish.

By the Earthstone Materials Team  ·  Published October 4, 2026  ·  Last updated: October 4, 2026

The short answer: dig a sloped trench, line it with fabric, bed perforated pipe in clean angular stone, wrap it shut, and give the water somewhere to go. The stone does two jobs: carrying water to the pipe and keeping soil away from it. Use clean angular stone, never limerock or dirt, and the drain keeps working for decades.

What you need

For a typical residential drain: drain rock or #57 stone (angular and washed), 4-inch perforated PVC or corrugated pipe, non-woven geotextile fabric, and coarse sand or soil for backfill. Pick the stone first: our best rock for a French drain guide explains why angular stone beats rounded, and the drainage rock guide covers sizing.

Step 1: Plan the route and the slope

Route the drain from the wet area to a legal outlet: a swale, a dry well, or the street drainage, never a neighbor’s lot. The trench needs fall along its whole length, about a 1 percent slope (roughly 1 inch of drop per 8 feet). In flat South Florida yards, that slope is the whole game: no fall, no flow.

Step 2: Dig the trench

A standard residential trench is 12 to 18 inches wide and 18 to 24 inches deep. Keep the bottom smooth and at a consistent slope; humps in the trench bottom become permanent puddles inside your drain. Call 811 before you dig.

Step 3: Line it with fabric

Lay geotextile fabric in the trench with plenty of excess on both sides. You will fold this over the top at the end like a burrito. The fabric is not optional: soil migrating into the stone is what kills French drains, and in sandy Florida soil it happens fast without a barrier.

Step 4: Stone, pipe, more stone

Spread several inches of stone in the bottom, set the perforated pipe on it with the holes facing down, then cover with stone on all sides: several inches below is not enough, the pipe needs stone above and alongside too. Keep a few inches of clearance between the top of the stone and the soil surface.

Step 5: Wrap, backfill, finish the outlet

Fold the fabric over the stone, then backfill with soil and sod or mulch over the top. At the outlet end, daylight the pipe with a pop-up emitter or into a swale, and armor the outlet with rip rap if water exits with force. Test with a hose before you backfill: water should run the full length and exit cleanly.

Mistakes that kill drains

Using limerock base or any stone with fines inside the trench: it seals itself within a season or two. Skipping the fabric. Burying the pipe with the holes up. And no outlet plan: a drain that ends in a low spot just moves the puddle. Stone is sold by the cubic yard; figure trench length by width by stone depth in feet, divide by 27, and request a quote with your measurements.

Frequently asked questions

Eighteen to 24 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches wide is the standard residential range. The pipe needs several inches of stone below it and full coverage above.
Down. Water rises into the pipe from below through the slots, and holes-up lets soil settle in. Set the pipe holes-down on its stone bed.
About a 1 percent slope, roughly 1 inch of drop per 8 feet of run. In flat Florida yards, establishing that fall is the most important part of the layout.
Yes, it is a common setup. Tie the downspout into solid (non-perforated) pipe until you reach the drain trench, then transition to perforated pipe in stone.
Compute the trench volume in cubic feet (length x width x stone depth) and divide by 27 for cubic yards. A 40-foot trench at 18 inches wide with 12 inches of stone needs about 2.5 cubic yards.

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